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I can't believe how difficult it is to find replacements for Nintendo D-Pads. They may look like they work, but in practice, even in comparison to the original worn-down D-pad, they just don't. If you were playing arcade classics like Donkey Kong or Pac-Man, these would be great. Anything requiring diagonals such as Gradius III or Link to the Past requires quite a strong thumb.
There is inherently nothing wrong with the shape of the silicone frame itself. It's ALWAYS the carbon pads. In the case of these, the pad footprint is more narrow than the original pads, covering less area. I would say about 4mm to the original pad's 5.1mm. This may be a factor, along with possibly how deep they sit vs the original pads which is hardly noticeable to the eye. I'm unsure without seeing an New-Old-Stock OEM pad.
I thought maybe the carbon pad was just weak. Measuring the ohms across the original D-pads got me somewhere under 100 ohms, (the closer to 0 is better for conductivity). Measuring these new pads was anywhere from 150-250 ohms depending on pressure applied. Didn't seem like a big deal, but to rule it out, I coated the new pads with a dab of conductive shielding paint. This brought the ohms down to just 3 ohms. However it made NO difference in attempting diagonals. For whatever reason, connecting two simultaneous pads just isn't happening as intended. At the moment, the controller is better off with the original worn down (and falling apart) D-pad membrane.
I had thought the hunt for an exact-or-better produced replacement membrane should have been available after what...31 years? The hunt continues. Till then, I'm going to be trying additional methods to find what modification will be required to make these new D-Pad diagonals function properly.
P.S. This is only my own experience. Maybe your mileage may vary. But I doubt it. Years ago I bought some replacements from a different vendor for NES pads with similar results. If the perfect replacement exists, it is not readily available anywhere that I have ever seen.
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