• Wing Screwdriver
• Flush Cuts - I would recommend these: https://amzn.to/3zB5jMu
• Soldering Iron - I would recommend this one - https://amzn.to/2S94xDk
• Solder - I recommend this https://amzn.to/2QuLXqy
• Flux - I recommend this https://amzn.to/3aDyNyc
• Desolder wick - for any mistakes. I recommend this https://amzn.to/2vIZ4Xb
• Multimeter with continuity https://amzn.to/3CziopS

Step 1 - Open the Shell with your Tri-Wing Screwdriver

2 - Apply the included double sided adhesive to the back of the Shinewave PCBs. You can also use hot glue if you do not want to use the included adhesive.

3A - If you have the solder free adapter, jump to the bottom of the document

3 - Solder the Quick Solder board (QSB) to the cable header.  It is critical that you make sure to place the 6 holes in the QSB over the 6 pins from the cable header.  Please double check you have done this correctly as this will be pulling the signals to power and provide inputs to the Shinewave.  Once lined up correctly you only need to solder pins 6, 3, and 2.  Respectively, these are ground, controller data, and 5v.  Generally, I recommend you tack one of the solder joints to hold the QSB in place and then make your final joints.  Finally, use a multimeter set to continuity mode to make sure you have no shorts between the 3 pins you just soldered.  To do this I recommend you hold the probes to pins 6 and 5 confirm no shorts, pins 4 and 3, confirm no shorts, pins 2 and 3, confirm no shorts, and finally, pin 2 and 1, confirm no shorts.  If you have any shorts, please use desolder wick to clean up excess solder and repeat testing until there is no short.  Once this is complete, you are done soldering.

3.5 - if you have a snapback kit now is the time to install that. Here is a link to that guide.

https://handheldlegend.com/pages/no-reset-snapback-installation-guide-rockergaming

4 -  Install the shinewave main board to the controller PCB, by removing the backer on the adhesive and sticking to the controller PCB.  If this is your first time doing this mod you may want to place the controller PCB back into the GCC front shell and then put the main board in as it will help get the alignment perfect.  I didnt do this in the video nor the picture below as I have done this many times.  Its also a good idea to clean the back on the controller pcb with some IPA prior to sticking the shinewave pcb on.

5 - Place the SHORTER of the two flex cables into the QSB.  Please take care when opening the FFC connectors in general as they can be a bit fragile and they can not be fixed without removing the component completely from the board.  Mind the direction of the flex cable to make sure the exposed conductors on the flex cable are orientated correctly.  When opening the FFC connector on the main board, I would recommend holding the board down so as not to accidentally pull it off the controller PCB.

6 - Place the LONGER of the two flex cables into the Cstick PCB.  Please take care when opening the FFC connectors as in general they can be a bit fragile and they can not be fixed without removing the component completely from the board.  Mind the direction of the flex cable to make sure the exposed conductors on the flex cable are orientated correctly.

Next, peel the double sided adhesive off of the cstick pcb by removing the backer on the adhesive and sticking to the cstick.  Please add in the loop in the ffc cable you see below to assist with routing as well as strain relief.

7- Insert the other end of the cstick FFC into the mainboard as shown in the picture.  Same caveats apply when opening the FFC connector on the main board. When opening the FFC connector on the main board, I would recommend holding the shinewave board down so as not to accidentally pull it off the controller PCB.

8 - Optional - Add hot glue to make sure your routing is clean.

9 - Test controller before reassembly.

10 - Once it is confirmed operational, determine if your rear controller shell requires modification.  Please see the following decision tree to assist with that determination.

https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1szaYWAfJA8m2fKQTojneMHcnJ8LJke9qhj1WDR9pVEA/edit?usp=sharing

11 - Reassemble and enjoy the show!

To swap modes, press and hold right or left on the dpad and tap Z.  Moving to the right will increase modes (i.e. move from mode 1 to mode 2) moving to the left will decrease modes (i.e. move from mode 1 to mode 13)

To change the led brightness you can hold up or down on the dpad and tap Z.  Default brightness is max. 

Default Mode (mode 1) - Character specific - This mode is designed with Smash Ultimate in mind and the OEM Nintendo Gamecube Adapter. The LED animations will react to the moves being performed on screen.  

Mode 2 - Classic Mode - This mode reflects led animations that are equivalent to the original button colors of the OEM gamecube controller, i.e. A = Green, B = Red, X&Y = White, Z = Purple, R&L = light pink and light blue.  Note, there is no cstick animation in this mode.

Mode 3 - Idle Animation - This mode will do the idle animation (rainbow fade) and will not react to button presses.

Mode 4 - Red - This mode will keep the leds red and will not react to button presses

Mode 5 - Orange - This mode will keep the leds orange and will not react to button presses

Mode 6 - Yellow - This mode will keep the leds yellow and will not react to button presses

Mode 7 - Green - This mode will keep the leds green and will not react to button presses

Mode 8 - Teal - This mode will keep the leds teal and will not react to button presses

Mode 9 - Blue - This mode will keep the leds blue and will not react to button presses

Mode 10 - Purple - This mode will keep the leds purple and will not react to button presses

Mode 11 - Pink - This mode will keep the leds pink and will not react to button presses

Mode 12 - White - This mode will keep the leds white and will not react to button presses

Mode 13 - Off

Step 3 A - Installation of the solder free adapter:

You will want to insert the header pins into the back of the cable header as seen in the pictures below insert on an angle starting with pin 6 and then fully insert to pin 1

Once installed it should look like this.

Once installed jump back to step 3.5, however, note your cable routing should look as below.  This is a picture from an early development unit, but the flex cable routing is appropriate.  It can be helpful to have a tiny bit of hot glue or some double sided tape on the side of your rumble to help hold the flex cable in place.