SEGA Game Gear and Atari Lynx Backlight

I remember reading somewhere that this kit was used to backlight a TI84+. I couldn't find where I saw it so I decided to poke around for some voltages on the ribbon connection and found what I needed. I had to modify the backlight a little bit to make them fit, but everything worked out as good as it could have - bright screen, powers on and off with the calc, relatively simple to install. If you want to check out what I did you can find it on my youtube where I tried to make a decent "how-to" video for it. https://youtu.be/3apdGCHpDwo

Good quality, good modularity, everithing good.👍👍👍

It looks great and definitely fills its role as a dead tube replacement. It just works.

I recommend using excess cap legs or the extra from the resistor leg to bridge L4; don't do a solder blob. Also the reflective housing for the bulb needs some of its top front (that touches the old diffuser) sanded down for a true flush fit since the LED board is thicker than the diffuser was. Otherwise it pushes the LCD too far out to stay in the bracket/flush with the side that was glued. You can just lightly tighten the screws to keep it in place and avoid it pushing the LCD out, but if you use a bit of sand paper you can get a flush fit. Definitely use a saw and sand paper to finish the bracket cuts and it will be perfectly center.

Great quality and fits perfect into my TI-82&83 calculators! Had a lot of fun with this.

What you can expect:
x2-x3 battery life in the Sega Game Gear
Reduced temperatures aid in longevity of other components
Traditional install may be intimidating to beginners
Traditional install will be a pain for all skill levels

My first install was preformed using the instructional video provided for this backlight which requires cutting the LCD away and butchering the diffuser. If you haven't installed one of these yet traditional methods aren't fun and requires an exacto knife, dremel, a lot of patience and plenty of potential for an OH S*** moment leaving screen modding your only option if that happens. Your mod could instantly jump from $10 to $100+

So I made it easier and now the only challenge is the 4 florescent tube components to remove. No cutting of any kind and your diffuser remains 100% intact leaving it free to do its intended job; diffuse your backlight.

Backlight no longer takes the place of the diffuser resulting in a more authentic look.

Screen alignment is no longer a "fiddly" process. Provided spacers allow use of reflector shield screws without further need for the reflector shield itself.

Installers note:
Regardless of which route you intend to go, traditional or with the mounting kit, the screw posts on the diffuser are very brittle. Colin points this out in his installation video during the cutting process. The screw posts are no different and, in my experience, they can fall apart simply by removing the screws. If this happens do your best to put the pieces back in place using super/krazy glue. If glue fills the entire hole take a toothpick and gentle thread it through the hole to prevent it from becoming filled with hardened glue. I would also advise applying glue to the exterior of any non broken screw posts. This will help reinforce them down the line hopefully preventing them from cracking altogether. Allow the glue to fully dry before proceeding.

YouTube Review (NOTE: video was made prior to mounting kits final revision)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfQzmom_bTE&t=7s

HHL LED Backlight Mounting Kit (Kits are assembled by me and not affiliated with HHL)

http://ebay.us/z1lqs7?cmpnId=5338273189

This is a drop-in replacement for the factory fluorescent bulb and it works very well. I did not bother to separate the LCD screen from the factory diffuser. Instead, I just used kapton tape to hold this against the diffuser. I also did not reinstall the factory domed reflector. It's still plenty bright this way. Would recommend this product to all.